Hi! Today I’ll show you my Lekala 4456 shirt sewing project, which began before my silk dress project, but you know, when I bought the silk I couldn’t resist to finish that first! Although I was almost finished with the shirt by that time, but […]
Today I’ll show you how to change the seamlines in your bra if you are up to be a bra designer! It’s really easy and rewarding. And I’ll also show you how to make a longline bra from a regular bra pattern.
Recently (as you could see) I became a huge fan of longline bras. I guess I’ll have a huge collection by next year, but I can’t help it, it’s my favourite style.
Okay, let’s see – I’ve got a regular, self-drafted bra cup made of foam, without seam allowances, sewn together. (you can use any kind of bra pattern). Point is: this cup is perfectly fits on my boobs so I want to keep this cup size.
The cup was cut out from a less successful foam bra – please forgive me the remains of the fabric.
I take this cup and seperate its parts – as I wish, BUT you have to take a seamline which crosses the Bust Point. In my case, I wanted a seperate power bar on the side, and I wanted to seperate the bottom cup part into 2. Also keep in mind, that if you cut the inner bottom cup part too big, your boobs will point to east and west, that’s why I (if I use horizontal seam line) keep the inner bottom cup part tinier than the outer bottom cup part.
Now you have to trace your parts, and on the X I noted the points when I made the lines curvy! You have to redraw your parts to make some lines curvey, because if you leave them straight, there won’t be curve – there won’t be cup and bra!
Where I use almost straight line is the bottom of the upper cup piece – cause I don’t wanna make a pointy bra. This straight part makes the bra cup round (still the bottom cup pieces are very curvy, don’t forget!)
I also added seam allowances everywhere (0.5 cm).
Basically I lengthened my original cradle pattern, that’s it, folks. 🙂 And the wings as well.
I always use 1.5 cm SA above the underwire – because I often encountered the problem that the cradle was too short and I ended up being frustrated how to solve that my underwire doesn’t fit the cradle! I also always think about the wire spring – it’s 3-4 mm when you pull your underwire to the side but it’s not that necessary – it’s just more comfortable. (I couldn’t show it because that photo needs to hands..)
Now you have to make sure that the bottom side part of your cups measure exactly your cradle size!
Let’s assemble the cup parts! I used a cute, 18 cm wide stretch lace fabric, with scalloped edges.
I begin with the bottom parts: the inner bottom cup part and the middle bottom cup part. Then comes the upper cup piece and at the end – the power bar.
As I use scalloped edge lace and lace only, I use straight stitches and then a second, flatting stitch then trim the seam allowances.
The finished cup:
Now you can try it on, the best is if you have two hands, I use my thumb and finger nail on the bottom parts, and with my other hand I pull the upper cup piece to see whether it fits or not. On the pic it has wrinkles, but because there is no pull on the upper part.
If it’s ok, go on with the other cup part!
We’ll continue next week!
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The testers of the Budapest high waist panty sewing pattern were really kind and excited to try these undies!
So let me show you their versions of the panty and some reviews attached by them:
- the first lovely pair of Budapest high waist panty by Di, using floral fabric and stretch elastic:
I have just finished your pattern, it fits lovely no problems at all. They fit beautiful!
- the second pair by Tara, who used cute floral fabric and FOE:
HI! I really like the pattern. The fabric is quite sheer but the fit is great. Very comfortable.
It went together quite well.
- I got a lovely, thorough review from Lolie, who made such adorable undies using the Budapest pattern:
I finally could make it and I absolutely LOVE your pattern. It fits really well, so beautifully, except where I thought it would not, but it’s a very easy fix. My hips are very long and oval-shaped, they turn rather dramatically in at my waist, 2 inches over my belly button, so the rounded side seam is turning in too fast for me, it stretches to its maximum the waist elastic. So I’ll straighten out the curve at the top and it should do the trick. Except from that, they hug my body and have an excellent coverage at the rear, something I really appreciate. Usually panties float a bit on me at the rear, but it does not in your pattern. Another plus! It ends exactly 2’’ below my belly button, just as supposed and that’s very flattering.I must congratulate you on the nice pattern release, you must be very proud. Anyway, I am impressed! 🙂All in all it was a very fun thing to sew and I love how it turned out. Officially my favorite panty pattern from now on, I can see a lot of it in my future 😉I’ll attach pictures of it finished!
- next we have these undies from Kate who used grey jersey and black elastic – a professional pairing:
I’m thankful for the testers, and I’ll keep updating the story of the Budapest panty! I hope that you, dear Reader will try yourself out and make a lovely pair of these undies!
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Hi All, I was thinking about giving something back to the sewing blogsphere – because I learnt so much from you, I learnt the most from bloggers, tutorials, little videos and you gave me so much inspiration I can’t tell! So here is my little […]
Hope you’re having a great time, we have a 3 days long weekend because of national holiday and next week we’re off to ride bike from Prague to Dresden (we’re traveling with train to Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic and then we’ll ride 210 kms to get to the German city, Dresden.)
So I keep sewing, I’m almost finished with my second Lekala dress, some finishing touches are needed and OF COURSE I had to sew a new bra for myself. I wanted to make a nice longline bra for a very long time, and I was thinking about a boned one – you know which look like almost bustiers. Or they are actually bustiers. So, some kind of hybrid!
I created the sister of the black lace bra! And why is it a sister? Not only for that it is white and that one black, but because they arrived together. By the way, this white lace is super soft, the black one was tougher to touch, but this white lace (to my surprise) seems to be better quality.
I wanted a similar look like this one below:
You know, I used for this white lace longline bra sewing the same self drafted pattern just like with the black one, but I used a more relaxed underwire (the sides were almost evenly short, so no significant difference), and my main idea was a two cup pieces bra, which is decorated on the band by the lace itself and also on the upper cup piece. Also I lenghtened the cradle and wings. And I wanted to have a round look, not a triangle look.
I was used to put elastic on the upper cup piece, but the black one, and now the white bra proved that it’s not that necessary when the cup itself is stretchy – snugs on your body!
I knew I had to stabilize the cradle and I used for that white rigid tulle. I remember when I made this emerald longline that it had wrinkles all over the cradle. I learnt that I should have used a shorter lining piece to avoid that (it would free floating) but with this white lace it would have ruined the look – how do you hide the board of the lining? I could have used jersey and lace, and then lining, but… I wasn’t concerned that much.
So, it has few wrinkles – but it’s okay! And actually I love it so much, it’s very comfortable and very gorgeous look. I’m thinking about putting boning to the sides and to the front – but I’m not sure yet. I love it anyway!
I havve one more thing to do: matching panties!
Another information: for a while I’m aware my right and left boobies are not even. There is a slight difference which why I use a bigger size of underwire which fit perfectly my right one, and almost pefectly my left one. BUT! I discovered that on the right side there is always gaping in the cradle and when I pull the fabric it disappered.
So my solution was that I shortened the cradle on my right side – and voilá! With this white longline lace bra it’s perfect! No more gaping 🙂
( PS: I know there are puckers… they happened at the very first step and I discovered them too late when I had no energy to unpick so many seams. )
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