Lace longline bra with diagonal seams

Lace longline bra with diagonal seams

Hi Kittens,

I completed my superb, tailored jacket/blazer whatever you call it! YEAH! (Photos and post about it when I am healthy again…)

So, yes, jacketmaking did take me 1,5 months and it is really rewarding. I had a downpoint after 1 month but eventually could get my shit together and finish the garment. And now that I’m done with it, as you can guess, it was hard to avoid starting other projects (okay, okay, I knitted socks and hat for relaxing purposes), but didn’t start to sew anything! And I’m really proud of myself for not producing another UFO. And you know, it’s kinda frustrating when for this long time all you can see on IG is the sea of easier projects – and you have to keep focused and not wanting to start something new. It’s tempting!

But now I’m done, I thought I’ll sew some lingerie, because it’s been a while. Besides that I teach on my workshops around once a month I wasn’t really in sewing lingerie for a while now, I just lacked the inspiration and, well, I’m not a hoarder, I had finally 6-7 perfect bras and I was fine with them. Still am.

I just saw the new Madalynne patterns (amazing girl, rising like a lingerie-star!!), and I GOT inspired. 

And while I’m planning to purchase the 8228 pattern, I thought I would draft my own 8229 pattern. Actually I have never made a bra with correct diagonal seams (with 2 cup pieces only) so it was time to challenge myself!

I used my trusted self-drafted pattern pieces from my previous project, the white lace longline bra.

So how did I transfer the seamline?



Sorry for my Paint magic, but I hope it is still useful.

So, I took my horizontal seamlined cup pieces and slide them on top of each other at the seam allowance line – and tried to align them until the Bust Point (which point the seamline MUST cross). I drew the new line and made it slightly curved, added SA.

Then for the inner cup piece I took the other side of the cup pieces and did the same, added SA.

I had to measure the cradle of course – the wire line length and it must be EQUAL with the bottom curve of the cup pieces (which fit into the cradle). Is this clear? If not, please, write a comment and I try to explain it better!

So I had my new cup patterns and it was time to sew. I used this pretty blue lace which I ordered from AliExpress (it’s not available now) for a while now – then I lined each part so the seams are pretty and not raw inside as well.

I lined the cradle with rigid tulle too, so there are 3 layers. And basically that’s it.

I made matching thong right after the bra was done, I used my very old RTW thong to copy the pattern.

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Well, the diagonal seamline is OK, it is a little too deep – I could pinch out some extra fabric next time and redraw the pattern lines. I’m happy that at the first try the new bra fits me – so hurray for the design process 🙂 However, I still love the horizontal seamlines, but it was really great to experiment with seamlines.

What’s next?

Cold weather touched my soul so as I’m already into navy blue stuff I want to make a navy blue bodysuit… 🙂

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