Hi Everyone! As I’m today 36 weeks into pregnancy, I thought I’d share my latest creations with you. No clothes, but toys and small stuff. My mind is totally spinning around the Baby, motherhood, family etc., although yesterday I had my last bramaking workshop and […]
It’s been a while, and those who follow me on Instagram know the truth: I’ve been busy with blazer sewing in the last 1 and half month.
When I started to sew 1,5 years ago, I tried to make a suit at my 4th or 5th attempt, LOL, such naive thought, I was thinking I could make it work with ambitious mood. Well, hell NO! 🙂
Deep in the roots of Instagram you can see the outcome: two weeks of suffering and throwing the fabric into the trash bin.
Let’s start at the beginning… back then I bought Burda sewing pattern at my local sewing machine store, you can order patterns online, choosing the one you like from a big catalouge (these are not in the magazine!).
I didn’t watch too much videos, read tutorials or blog, instead I thought with the description I can make it. I fell for tweed, but the original is so pricy – I bought a cheaper blend.
I had a little Facebook help, my classmate from college, who is a professional designer now helped me trough Messenger, a little Q&A. We talked about making it together but it didn’t happen.
Burda is not ready-to-made for me. I fit in the sizing chart but still a lots of tweaking would be necessary, which back then I did not know. The details are a little cryptic, although the little pictures can help you a lot.
All in all, I hated the blazer I made, it was ugly, didn’t fall properly at all and I was so nervous by the time I made the lining, that it literally fell apart when I took it on, because I was so distracted when I stitched the lining together it became sooo small, I ripped the whole thing. At this point I threw it into the trash bin.
Although I did make the skirt, lined it, but eventually wore it once – I felt so old lady like in it.
Of course I haven’t given up my dream. Yes, it was my dream to make a blazer for myself. Alexander McQueen 2006 F/W collection still inspired me with those beautiful suits, blazers, jackets.
Steffani Lincecum, the instructor comes from the world of costumes and knows awfully lot about the classic jacketmaking techniques.
No “sticky interfacing” and “sew this in 3 hours” stuff, but there is a lot of skills learning, just like taking a look at some deep, precious, old book full of beautiful knowledge. A lot of handstitching, haute couture techniques and she grabs you by the hand, indeed.
So I bought the class for 19.99$. It is superb! You can take one step at a time, your access lives forever, you can replay it a 100 times if yu need, and there is an open Q&A section where the teacher answers all of your questions.
And also, as ordering Vouge, Butterick patterns could cost you a thousand bucks with shipping cost (here, in Europe), Craftsy sends you the sewing pattern for free, the Butterick B4610. Isn’t it amazing?
So I started to sew in April, but I wanted to spare some… well, it was expensive to be honest, but I chose a cotton blend, a stiffer one to the outer fabric, but after all it was a little bit stretchy and I didn’t like how the sleeve hung. Also the sewing pattern wasn’t fitted enough for me, it was a little boxy and didn’t fall properly on me (yes, I made a muslin but I lacked the proper sewing alterations’ knowledge). So, when I set one sleeve I left it unfinished. Of course, in a deeply sad mood.
Then fall came and I still wanted to make a blazer SO MUCH! I knew the best blogs, tutorials, descriptions and I found Lekala. They turned out well so I merged the Craftsy video class and the Lekala sewing pattern and as the saying is: “Three of the Hungarian justice” for the third attempt my Lekala blazer was born. I used Lekala 4162.
I didn’t spare, the gorgeous, forestgreen wool fabric was around 35$/meter, I bought 1.5 meter. I had hair canvas left and also I had the lining from the previous project – so far so good! I used linen and batiste on the inside, to strengthen the wool.
- I steamed the wool – no ironing, just pressing through some cotton batiste, because ironing makes the fabric shiny! You can only dryclean it.
- I made bound buttonhole.
- I bound together the hair canvas and wool by handstitches, basted them at first. The diagonal way the handstitches lay helps the lapel, gives structure and there is some stretchness in the stitches too. There is twill tape on the outside of the collar.
- I basted linen and cotton batiste to the wrong side of the wool on the back and side parts.
- There is hair canvas on the upper collar too, fixed with hand stitches.
- I sewed the body together, clipped into the SA, ironed it. A lot of steam needed – wool is really pleasant to work with steam!
- I midered the sleeve vents, and I screwed it up a little… but it’s slightly visible, I’ll do it better next time.
- I set the sleeves in, put shoulder pad and sleeve head which cause the amazing shoulder areas! I used regular fleece instead proper sleeve head, got the job done.
- I sewed the lining with the collar facings together.
- At first I sewed the wrong part of the upper collar to the lapel. Back then I put plus 10 cm fabric to the middle, resew, but then at the facing I realized it doesn’t work… OMG. I had to redo the whole process, I catchstitched the SA at the collar area like 3 times.. And one side of the notched collar is still not the best, I will try to do it better.
- This is the hardest part, the notched collar: 4 corners meet at that point. You have to stop sewing at one side, make a knot, continue sewing and you can’t trim the whole SA, you have to leave some to give it some body, but not too much… ahh.. next time better.
- This was my low point in the whole process – I was working on it for a month then, and I have to let it go that it will be perfect. It won’t. Maybe none of my garments will ever be perfect. But I can’t be a person with decades of experience after more than a year of sewing!
- I sewed the lining and body together, steamed, ironed the blazer. I topstitched the lapel and collar, feather stitched the lining, I tacked the roll line, handstitched the lining to the body at the facing, handstitched the sleeve lining to the lining body, handstitched the sleeve lining at the wristle etc etc… 🙂
I gotta admit, I’m totally proud of myself, because I didn’t give up, I could let go some weaker parts, let them be – and I didn’t start another project (It’s so hard when IG is full of makes, makes, makes…) – okay, I knitted socks and a cap! 🙂 – and I really hope this blazer will be something which will be my partner for years, or even decades. I feel that the work invested is worth, and I love it much more than the quick-and-easy projects.
And don’t get me wrong: I do know the imperfect parts, but all in all, I love it anyway.
I learnt so much and I think it’s really worth to buy Craftsy classes if you lack the time or money to go to sewing classes. I already bought the coatmaker, Chanel jacket, corset maker and couture classes.
A long project like this teaches you humilty, patience and endurance. It made me want to dive into advanced projects, like coat making and using more handstitches, couture techniques. Slow fashion is about quality, not quantity.
Who needs the 100th shift dress, like real?
Let me show you some pic about my knitted hat, it is made of Drops yarn, Garnstudio pattern.
It is a mix of alpaca, mohair and silk – I used two different yarns.
After one and half year, I also had a success at sock knitting. It turned out that my burden was the sock knitting needle set… 5 needles? Not for me! I LOOOOVE circular needles, and the magic loop technique is so great for sock knitting as well.
Yarn: Drops Eskimo
And more pictures about our lovely weekend: we went hiking with my hubby, my father-in-law, their dog and our dog. Everybody had great time!
Hi Kittens, I completed my superb, tailored jacket/blazer whatever you call it! YEAH! (Photos and post about it when I am healthy again…) So, yes, jacketmaking did take me 1,5 months and it is really rewarding. I had a downpoint after 1 month but eventually […]
Today I’ll share a quick but one of my not-the-best projects. I’ll tak this time about Lekala Pleated Skirt With Yoke – Sewing Pattern #S3017 which is still free, a beta pattern if you want to give it a try!
I fell in love with this cream-lilac viscose, shiny, glam fabric I saw in the store window. I touched it, the right side is quite stiff, but the wrong side is very soft. Hmm, I shoud make a pleated skirt from this – that was my first thought.
Thing is, I have a straight hip which means normal pleated skirts and gathered skirts look awful on me. Somehow I aways need to focus my cothing on fitted skirts and trousers – fitted around my waist and hip. Without fitting a garment around my hip this slight curve gets lost and I look strange.
So eventually I found this pattern, Lekala Pleated Skirt With Yoke – Sewing Pattern #S3017, and I was delighted to see that it is halfdown fitted with pleats, that’s my girl.
With my previous silk dress I was fine with pleats, but oh boy, with this bottom-weighted, viscose fabric I should have been more careful. I secured only the top of the pleats and the rest of it – I did not. I hoped it would fall okay, but turned out, these pleats became alive and decided, nope, we’re not doing it… somehow the grainline must be off, I have no idea why a pleat is broken below the seam line – now I know I should have secured (with basting stitches) it all the way down, the pleats.
And this fabric can not be ironed too much on the right side, it’s a pain in the ass to get these pleats ironed!
After the pleat securing I didn’t see the drape of the garment and I haven’t redo it – I still have no dress form to put it on and see what’s going on, which makes me willing to buy one but every month I have such a long list what I should purchase and these big plans just go to pieces. Like: serger, button sewing foot, dress form… and meanwhile we always have some fixing around the house, or yepp, holidays or the basic stuff. So, I should spare more and then I wouldn’t end up like this, ehh.
HOWEVAH, I feel like a princess in this skirt!
I made only one little alteration, I had to make looser the waistband by letting to be visible the hidden zipper, I couldn’t loosen up the side, there was the waistband sealing it.
Hey All! We’re back from Barcelona where we spent 5 beautiful days with the help of the lovely Sofía from Silver Lining Atelier – she happens to live in Barcelona – unfortunately we couldn’t meet but she wrote me a superb guide to the city, […]
Have you ever felt in a fabric shop that you left a GEM behind? Like you are itching for weeks, (worse: have nightmares, lol) about that beautiful, unique, awesome fabric which you have NOT bought. And some other person wears it and happy in it, and you feel sad.
Okay, I’m not trying to be dramatic here, but sometimes I feel this. Like today. And like a month ago. Sometimes I can’t decide. Sometimes there is not the ONE, multiple ONES! And yikes, your budget allows you one, two, but not four, five, six, seven different fabrics at a time… This is the cloudy side of sewing. Choosing! Choosing between fabrics.
When I went for a frickin’ cheap textile shop which I generally dislike, because the poor-so poor quality of fabrics – turned out there is bra foam. I bought, like 3 meters! You gotta catch it when there is one nearby, NO, not Pokémon, I was a true fan back when I was a child, but I’m not playing it now. I had these tazos, and PokeMaster Handbook when I was 11, 12 yrs old. We fought between classes at school and I loved the series. But now? I’m like – I’ve been there back then! I was TRUE.’ HAHA!
Goood news, also! At weekend I finally found out more about my mysterious disease I’ve been suffering for 10! years. Imagine that your legs are itchy every time you have a contact with water. But not salty water, only showers, baths, sweat etc. 1000 needles running under your skin – and no rash! Nothing visible. Just horrible, mindblowing itching. I have been practicing meditation (on and off for a while), my mantra doesn’t help it. I try to focus on other things but when I have seizure, it’s awful.
It’s really bad during these weeks, here the air got so humid, you have drops on your skin. Morning shows are disasters. I only take bath or shower at evening and when I get out I immediately put on pants. Pants are the only things that can soothe my pain. I tried several types of lotions, hypoallergen, bla bla, cheaper, more expensive, steroids ( no thanks) – nothing helped. Some days, some months are fine, but let me tell you, I’ve been suffering in these two weeks. And when I googled it there was something connected with water induced itch – and I went further – and there is a forum, started in 2016 with 300 posts from people who have EXACTLY the same problem as I do.
In Hungarian sites, also the dermatologist couldn’t tell me what it is. I have eczema on my hands, but not on my legs. And well, here are the people who have the same issue, tried the same things I did, suffer exactly more during summer and most of us thought this must be some psychosomatic issue. No, ma’am.
Results? Relief on my soul. Nobody knows what causes it, must be some kind of specific allergy – no one knows how to put an end to it. You can treat it – blowdry your legs, pat you legs with towel, put immediately your pants on and wait for a drier season…
If you scroll through a sewing blog you might wonder that, ‘oh, this person has everything, perfect life in the showcase, no problems at all‘ – at least on the blog. I have shortsight for 15 years now, wearing glasses or contact lens, I have often backache (I have problems with my spine – I have to care for my spine to avoid slipped disc, my stomache is not a strong one – which means I eat light food mostly. I had a congenital issue with my neck which caused a huge cyst and it had to be surged back in 2013.
Also as a 26 yrs old married gal, I want kids and sometimes I’m afraid of being a mother. Is it stupid? I think it’s natural to have fears. I fear of not getting pregnant and I fear of getting pregnant. What if….? What if there is barrenness? And I’m not saying my mind is 100% focusing of fear, but there is some.
And on top of that we have an ongoing issue in our street. The next building to ours is almost like a ruin but it’s a governmental building and poor people live inside (people say it’s a drug spot…). So since April, 2016 a couple of gypsies come to that house at 1-2 after midnight, push the horns for minutes, screaming, yelling to a person and drove away. They are f’cking idiots and I hate them so much! Imagine 5 big, young fella, sometimes there are more cars with more people and they just push those horns and scream, everybody is awake in the neighbourhood and they drive away, come back minutes later and this little intermezzo happens 4-5 times a night. It happened previously 8-10 times a month, in summertime your window is open and they come almost 3-4 times A WEEK! And you can’t communicate them.
Last week a guy from the opposite house came to the street with a 20 cm long knife – he said, get out of the car, you piece of shit! And they kept screaming sitting in the car. Then drove away, got scared. But guess what? Last night they came back with another car of people, and yelled for this guy with the knife, they yelled exactly ‘We’ll kill you, you bald motherf*cker!
Now I’m at a point where I’m gonna collect signatures and pass them to the Governmental Office and Police. Oh yepp, I called the police but by the time they arrive these — things drove away. They know exactly this game: make a mess for couple of minutes, go away, come back, go away, come back, go away and well, this is so funny for them.
So I’m, today (02.08) devastated. I couldn’t sleep much, I was so mad, I’m getting heartpumps when a single car slows down on the street. We can’t sleep with closed window, it’s too hot. I want to be elsewhere, but we haven’t bought our flat to live in fear.
So wish us good luck to make them somehow go away or just encounter them with the police…
After confessing, let me keep talking about fabrics. I saw a candy-coloured fabric. There was a huge pile of it, and I liked it but then to touch it it was not so dreamy. It is a polyester knit. But I loved the colours. And it was really cheap – 2$/yard. I left it.
Lately it popped up when I saw the new collection of the Hungarian designer brand, Ticci‘s photos.
There she is, my want-to striped, polyester fabric! Pretty, right?
I had to go back to that shop and I purchased 2 yards of it.
And now let’s see what I’ve made, copying my go-to knit basic dress – I made a maxi dress.
Let the pictures tell the process!
Let’s see the truth!
This fabric is my guilty pleasure.
I hate it and I love it. I hate its quality but I love its look. It was awful to sew, it sticked on everything, not like my previous cotton jerseys.
Oh God, what have I done? It’s a see-through dress and I’ll probably wear it at a beach. Or not wear it at all?
What about conscious sewing? Capsule collection? I failed and I enjoyed it. Guilty pleasure it is!
Have you ever encountered guilty pleasure in sewing? Like you knew you shouldn’t have done it but you did it anyway?
Hey-hey! This skirt was waiting patiently to be blogged about for quite a time. When I saw the Lekala #S3025 Skirt With Insets And Piping sewing pattern which is still a “beta” sewing pattern (not completely released) but the beta verions means it is free (hurray), […]