About a month ago or so I made my decision and bought a class on Craftsy! I know a lot of people joined these wonderful video classes (most of I read were Beverly Johnson’s Bramaking classes), but I was looking for something else (cause I own Beverly’s book and lately I lost some of my lingerie mojo – like the scale went down for the clothes).
7-8 months ago when I was just getting around sewing and made like 5-6 projects I decided I’m gonna make a suit! A tweed suit! Such naive thoughts... But you can’t blame me, I was fresh in sewing world and I thought it couldn’t be hard – but, well, it IS hard, very hard and the more I sew the more I feel like it’s getting harder – when you want to try yourself out in different garments, different styles, not just causal t-shirts and tops.
So, I want to show you my failure from back then:
This was a Burda pattern, an individual pattern I bought – I haven’t used any outside helps only following the description (which was quite helpful, full of pictures).
But it lacked the tailoring techniques, hair canvas, hand stitching— nothing there.
So I spent one week to experience the hard way of making and failing.
Actually it’s not THAT bad for a begginer, but it clearly shows that the pattern should be adjusted to my body and there is no stability in the blazer at all. It collapses on my body.
However, the matching skirt turned out to be good, although I wore it like once since then, I feel like an old lady in a tweed skirt. Somehow my love for tweed is not a heavenly-matched love, I love it on other people, on Englishmen, on Pinterest photos but on me, without full styling looks so old.
But I never give up on jacket / blazer making!
And when I saw this class on Craftsy, Classic Tailoring : The Blazer for $59.99 or something I was… Umm, it’s so great, but I’m gonna wait for a while to purchase the class. And I was browsing through the project photos, other reviews about the actual pattern (Butterick B4610), and when I saw the class is on sale for $19.99, I instantly bought it!
The pattern is free for the class, thank God, they send it to you (to Hungary Simplicity and Butterick and Vogue international shipping rates are $15… double of the actual patterns so I never buy these American patterns).
I wanted to use wool for this jacket, but, 1, it’s almost summer here, 2, I didn’t want to spend too much money on expensive fabric, because this was my real first try. And you have to buy so many stuff for this project – I payed only for the cotton fabric $16 / the seller showed me a beautiful wool fabric in white – LOVE LOVE LOVE, and it was on SALE, guess for how much? Instead of $44/meter it was only $30/meter…. what a bargain… 🙁 I’m not a millionaire, sorry, maybe, next time.
Okay, let’s talk about the materials:
- cotton lawn / batiste / or cotton muslin
- twill tape
- fusible interfacing /or wigan
- hair canvas
The teacher is Steffani Lincecum, who comes from the costume world and knows her thing around garments. I liked her ‘coaching’, understandable, easy to follow and very nice.
The first half of the making process is full of hand stitching! A LOT! And you know what? I found it very rewarding, because handstitching the hair canvas, the lapel and the under collar gives very good shape to your garment.
I used cotton fabric with a little bit of stretch.
So, you begin with cutting the pieces, making bound buttonhole, putting twill tape on the lapel, undercollar, handstitching like a million times, basting cotton muslin on your pieces and fusible interfacing or wigan on the bottom.
Reinforcing the shoulder
Handbasting on front
Front – inside – outside (full of handstitches, twill tape)
So I felt that it’s going well, I’m getting it, it’s slowly have a shape.
I forgot to tell that I made a quick muslin, only a vest to see is it okay, and I compared the size to my other blazers and I felt okay, it’s gonna be all right. (I shortened the shoulder a little and adjusted to fit better the princess seam on the front).
And then, my fate reached me.
Steffani, so so sadly and I also read another blogger’s review about the class, forgot (or just ignored) the very- very hard process of setting the sleeves in. And I’m so sad, really.
I put on like 100 times the jacket, pinned, then basted, repinned, twisted, basted again, tried my left sleeve on. That bastard drapes unwell! Somehow there is a line and it’s like my sleeve collapses, or.. you know, it looks like there is a twist, no matter how hard I tried.
I started to setting the sleeve in last Thursday, and tried it since then, almost every night, and yesterday I said, it’s fine by me, I don’t care anymore and I just hope with time I’ll be better at sleeve setting.
So as much as I like this class, I’m really devastated because the sleeve setting part is missing.
And the mider on the sleeve is a little bit confusing, too – one side is recorded very well, but the other side of the sleeve is getting midered more easily – and the camera doesn’t show where she folds, stitches and turns the fabric… hmph.
I know these issues are not issues for experienced seamstresses, but for me, they are issues.
Right now both sleeves are inserted, they are just not great. I’m working on the jacket for 1,5 weeks and I’m getting exhausted (I had to make a quick t-shirt during it, and also I’m wanting to try my first Lekala shirt pattern..), so I don’t know, it’s impossible to work so much constantly and you don’t know is it going to fit well? Or I would say it, I know it’s not gonna fit perfectly tailored but I have to keep working to gain experience and learn, and maybe next time make a better version.
So I’ll keep you updated, I need to sew together the lining and front facing, attach the two parts and then line the sleeves and some final touches… Right now I know I’m not gonna put packets on it, I don’t want to mix the pattern too much.
A photo, when it had only one sleeve: