Lekala three-seam skirt / Lekala ingyenes szabásminta : szoknya

A quick post for also today – I made another Lekala, this time a free skirt sewing pattern, the Lekala three seam skirt!

It’s a very simple skirt pattern with two darts on the front and 4 in the back (1+2 if we look at one side).

I made it two-three weeks ago, but I had no time to take photos about it, and sorry, but the photos taken are pretty bad – I wanted to manage it alone then the battery went dead… sigh.

I used a stretchy lace fabric – reminds me of guipure but a cheaper version and I completely underlined the skirt with ecru lining which gives an opalescent look to the outfit. I cut the lining shorter than the fabric itself because I wanted to give the scalloped egde some depth. I have a tiny problem with the waistband – which is not visible on the photos – it is gaping on the back! I have to hide it under a blouse.. which is being made – another Lekala blouse using ecru poplin fabric (I hope I’ll finish it soon).

It is an easy, quick project and if you haven’t tried Lekala patterns, you should try them! This one is for free! 


Még egy gyors bejegyzés mára! Nagy Lekala szabásminta rajongó vagyok és most is az egyik szabásmintájukat használtam, egy ingyenes szoknya szabásmintát. Nagyon alap ez az ingyenes szoknya szabásminta, három varrattal (ami összesen 6). Elől két szűkítő, hátul négy található, illetve rejtett vagy sima cipzár hátul + egy derékrész.

Sajnos a dereka hátul nekem kilóg, ez nem is látható a képeken, szóval nem tudom betűrt blúzokkal hordani. Attól függetlenül nagyon szeretem!

A budapesti Szervita téren vettem a csipkét, ez a másik kedvenc méteráru boltom, elég drága, de csak kiváló minőségű, európai import textileket forgalmaznak. A csipke kicsit guipure-os, ki akartam használni a díszes szélét, ezért az ekrü színű bélést rövidebbre szabtam. 

Egyébként tényleg nagyon egyszerű a szabásminta, francia varratokkal dolgoztam oldalt, miután a szűkítőket megcsináltam külön a csipkén és külön a bélésen. A bélés és a csipke egyedül a derékrésznél van összevarrva. A szabásminta szerint hátul fel kellett volna slicceni, de nem tartottam szükségesnek, szóval nem vacakoltam vele. 

Éppen készül hozzá egy színben passzoló, ekrü színű Lekala blúz, ez a szabásmintája, csak még nem fejeztem be. Ekrü színű puplinból készül, de lehet, hogy túl áttetsző lesz, úgyhogy még nem tudom, hogy menni fog-e az eredeti szoknyához. 

A képekért elnézést, most egyedül akartam fotózkodni, természetesen lemerült az aksi, lement a Nap is, úgyhogy most csak ilyeneket tudok közzétenni.

Közben egy selyem ruhán dolgozom, az első, 100%-os tiszta selyem ruhámon. Ha érdekelnek a részletek, Instagramon már elhintettem két képet, remélem, hamar készen leszek azzal a ruhával is, bár elég meleg! Egyébként régebben nehezen boldogultam a selyemmel (ld. melltartó), de most nagyon precízen igyekeztem szabni és varrni – ahol csak tudtam, francia varratokat használtam, mert úgy feslik, hogy csuda! Részletek legközelebb. 

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Polka dot bikini sewing / Pöttyös bikini varrás

Hey All,

Hot summer is here and I can’t wait to go on holiday which happens to be next weekend and plus 3 days! Yay! We’re going to my godparents’ house at the lake Balaton (the biggest lake in Hungary – it’s our “sea” as we don’t have any sea or ocean or any kind of salty water).

I was sewing al kind of stuff within a year – mostly lingerie, dresses, blouses – but as I sniffed the beautiful, summer air I knew I had to try myself out in bikini sewing. My favourite local shop offers various kinds of swimsuit fabrics – very vivid, colorful fabrics, lining, bikini closures and of course, swimsuit elastic.

For the top of the bikini I modified the Watson bra, view A. I think that bra is the most popular bra in the sewingsphere. don’t u think? I love it, too. but I still wear my very first version and I am 99% of finished with a second one, I’m just not feeling that one. These days at home I only wear my first Watson as a top, it’s so hot here!

So, I took the original pattern and modified it. I made the back part to be a straight line which finishes in the closure – and I had to make it a little longer because the back closure can’t be adjusted.

I also made two long straps following Erin’s perfect tutorial.

For the bottom part I used my RTW bikini bottom – it was my hubby’s specia request – to make a bottom with also straps on the side. I think it’s cute, too, and it wasn’t so hard to copy it – but I need to practice more with swimwear elastic – the pull needs to be stronger than with a regular lingerie elastic and also you don’t have to pul it at every part of the bikini. E.g. you don’t have to pull it at all when you sew the straps!

We spent the weekend at my husband’s parents and we went to the lake nearby, it was gorgeous! I feel sad because we left our dog there – she’s on vacation as well. There is another dog fellow, and my husband’s parents are retired so they spend all day in the garden and around the house, there are the grandchildren to play with her – so it’s all good for her!

———–

Hahó!

Úgy döntöttem, a blog további bejegyzéseit magyarul is megírom, hiszen úgy vettem észre, lenne rá igény, mivel elég kevés magyar varrós bog van, másrészt én is szeretnék megismerni vérbeli varrás imádókat, és remélem, a blogom segít majd néhány embernek, hogy egyrészt inspirálódjon, másrészt tippeket, trükköket tanuljon – mivel én is tudásom 98%-át a neten szereztem varrásügyben.

Az első magyar poszt a bikini varrás menetéről szól, a mostanit egy régebbi, merevítő nélküli melltartó szabásminta használatával varrtam, csak átalakításokat végeztem rajta (a hátsó pántját U alakból egyenesre szabtam, a kapocs miatt pedig meghosszabbítottam mindkét oldalát. Varrtam a kosárrészhez pántokat, itt arra kell figyelni, hogy a fürdőruha gumit egyáltalán nem szabad húzni, egyébként pedig mindenhol kicsit nagyobb mértékben kell feszíteni a gumit, ha pl. a hónalj résznél varrjuk a gumit.

A Taylor-ban vásároltam a fürdőruha anyagot, méghozzá ezt a pöttyöset, fél métert (retro életérzés, hello!), a bélést (testszínű), a kapcsot és a gumit is, ez az egyik kedvenc méteráru boltom Budapesten, mert itt tényleg minden kapható, ha lycrából, jerseyből akarunk valamilyen szép fehérneműt, vagy éppen fürdőruhát fürdőruha anyagból varrni. 

Belül nem olyan szép a bikini, mivel nincsen fedőzőm/overlockom, de engem nem zavar- az a fantasztikus, hogy ezek a mikroszálas anyagok nem feslenek, tehát csak levágom a varrás ráhagyást és annyi!

A bikini varrás nem nehéz, nem kell megijedni tőle. Én minden részét béleltem a bikininek, majd végül a gumit varrtam bele – a gumit a fehérnemű gumi varrásával ellentétben az anyag visszájára varrtam – közben húztam, majd befordítottam és varrtam rá egy második sort. Azért ehhez nem árt egy kis gyakorlás, a második sornál érdemes a belső széle körül varrni, különben kilátszódhat a gumi. A kapocs bevarrása nem volt nehéz, figyelni kell rá, hogy ha bebújtatom a kapocsba az anyagot, az a gumival együtt ne legyen szélesebb, mint a kapocs- tehát szabásnál ügyeljünk a szélességére!

A bikini alsót a férjem kérésére ( 🙂 ) az előző bikinim alsója alapján varrtam – ez egy oldalt kötős darab. Nem volt nehéz, csak kicsit kevés volt az anyagom és sajnos a kötőjét külön kellett toldanom így könnyen kifordul, ha nem figyelek rá. Na majd legközelebb jobban odafigyelek rá!

A hétvégét Balassagyarmaton töltöttük és ott elmentünk fürdeni Nyírjesbe, fantasztikus volt a víz, ilyen hőségben mást nem is lehetett csinálni, mint strandolni. A bikinit pedig felavattam. 🙂

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Budapest high waist panty sewing pattern review – the first projects have arrived!

Hi,

The testers of the Budapest high waist panty sewing pattern were really kind and excited to try these undies!

So let me show you their versions of the panty and some reviews attached by them:

  • the first lovely pair of Budapest high waist panty by Di, using floral fabric and stretch elastic:

I have just finished your pattern, it fits lovely no problems at all. They fit beautiful!

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  • the second pair by Tara, who used cute floral fabric and FOE:

HI! I really like the pattern. The fabric is quite sheer but the fit is great. Very comfortable.

It went together quite well.

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  • I got a lovely, thorough review from Lolie, who made such adorable undies using the Budapest pattern:
I finally could make it and I absolutely LOVE your pattern. It fits really well, so beautifully, except where I thought it would not, but it’s a very easy fix. My hips are very long and oval-shaped, they turn rather dramatically in at my waist, 2 inches over my belly button, so the rounded side seam is turning in too fast for me, it stretches to its maximum the waist elastic. So I’ll straighten out the curve at the top and it should do the trick. Except from that, they hug my body and have an excellent coverage at the rear, something I really appreciate. Usually panties float a bit on me at the rear, but it does not in your pattern. Another plus! It ends exactly 2’’ below my belly button, just as supposed and that’s very flattering.
I must congratulate you on the nice pattern release, you must be very proud. Anyway, I am impressed! 🙂
All in all it was a very fun thing to sew and I love how it turned out. Officially my favorite panty pattern from now on, I can see a lot of it in my future 😉
I’ll attach pictures of it finished!
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  • next we have these undies from Kate who used grey jersey and black elastic – a professional pairing:

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I’m thankful for the testers, and I’ll keep updating the story of the Budapest panty! I hope that you, dear Reader will try yourself out and make a lovely pair of these undies!

FREE PDF PATTERN AVAILABLE HERE

Lekala 4357 – a gingham dress for my birthday

Hey You!

We made the bike trip from Prague to Dresden, it was extremely beautiful 210 km riding through 5 days (3 days spent with actual bike riding – you can imagine that we were exhausted after 80 kms!!). The river Elba and Moldva are beautiful, and as I saw this Northern part of the Czech Republic and a small piece of Germany, I thought the Czech Republic is a better, you know, updated version of my country, Hungary.

Prague is smaller than Budapest, but we saw more tourists and well, they have an utterly beautiful main square, where all the buildings are renovated! And this renovation process is true to the whole city, here in Budapest you senses that lots of old buildings from the 19th century are need to be renovated, but you know… we are kinda always in the middle, between North and East – always between fires. We have to aggree with the EU but in the meantime Russia and the East Region is pushing the country as well and you can’t go away to anywhere. And we thought: well, in the Czech Republic not so much money is stolen by the government. (Right now in my country the governement steals so many things, so much money in front of the public that everybody is desperated.)

Enough from politics!

I fell in love with Lekala sewing patterns, I do. I still adore, admire and I’m grateful for this company. I have never felt that a pattern company could be such a good friend to my body!

After getting to know myself about the shirts, I thought I would make a shirt dress, a cute one with a nice silhouette.

I chose for this project Lekala 4357, but I’m not that brave yet to make and experiment with color blocking, so I sticked with a plainer plan. I luckily bought gingham rayon fabric with 50% discount and I thought it would be perfect for a summer dress like Lekala 4357. Gingham is all about the 50s, am I right? Marilyn Monroe, my favourite diva of all time wore cute gingham jeans as I recall. Yepp, here it is:

http://media1.s-nbcnews.com/i/newscms/2015_11/451511/2d274907980206-gingham-flashback-monroe-today-150311_29df7ab3690e3efd1681ce96defa08c8.jpg

So gingham it is!

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What can I say about the Lekala 4357 sewing project?

It has princess seams, a cute shirt-upper part with standing neck and collar, two buttons and a yoke on the back. It is fitted, have a tie band. It was an easy sewing project, with no rush, when I felt the mojo I sat down and working on it.

What I need to note that at all the seams I could I used French seams. I love French seams. I learnt from my mistake with the previous dress and I’ll never, ever use zigzag on the Seam Allowances because French seams are cleaner, safer way to finish your seams. I just ironed very thorough the seams to make them falt and it worked like a charm.

At my right arm hole I accidentally cut the binding NOT on the bias and it gapes a little. On the left I cut it on the bias and it is much more better looking.

I hemmed the skirt part by hand, it took me 1,5 hour or so but it was worth it – I think with my machine I’ll never be able to make nice draping garments if I hem them by machine. But hand hemming gives a really good looking.

And this dress was completed just before my birthday (I turned 26 yesterday, on the 29th of May), so it is a birthday gift for myself. My birthday was really good, we travelled to my parents where my sister and her family came too, she has a newborn, a 2 months old baby and a 3 year old girl, so it was calm and peaceful and full of love 🙂

OH and another thing: back in Dresden I got an e-mail that I won a Lekala Gift Certificate for 5 sewing patterns, I won the 1st prize with my previous dress at the contest :)) I was so surprised and happy and instantly chose my 5 free sewing pattern from Lekala. So, more Lekala to come!!!

‘Budapest’ FREE high waist panty sewing pattern XS-XXL

Hi All,

I was thinking about giving something back to the sewing blogsphere – because I learnt so much from you, I learnt the most from bloggers, tutorials, little videos and you gave me so much inspiration I can’t tell!

So here is my little treat for you, ‘Budapest’ FREE high waist panty sewing pattern! Nowadays the high waist panties are very popular – and I get it why – we all need now and then a comfy, cosy but flattering undie.

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The ‘Budapest’ high waist panty

I got the main idea from THIS Vogue article: Love in Full Bloomers.

It’s not hard to see why big knickers are back, especially if you’ve had the horrifying experience of seeing yourself wearing a G-string in a three-way changing-room mirror.

So here you go, my gift to you, the ‘Budapest’ (as I’m from Hungary, living in Budapest) FREE high waist panty sewing pattern!

And of course, a little Sew-Along!

What should you know about the ‘Budapest’ FREE high waist panty sewing pattern?
  • very comfy, relaxed fit
  • the top of the panty ends an inch (2,5 cm) belowe the belly button
  • it has 3 pattern pieces
  • has a floating gusset
  • made with love!
Materials required:
  • 0.5 m/yard fabric – cotton, lycra is suitable – the point is to have 4 way stretch fabric
  • a little piece of cotton to the gusset/crotch lining
  • elastic – I designed the pattern for FOE (fold over elastic) and stretch lace elastic – because these don’t require Seam Allowances on the waist and leg openings – if you want to use regular elastic, you’ll need to add SA to waist and leg openings as well!
Seam allowances:
  • There is no SA included except the Gusset piece!
  • SA needed to add = 0,5 mm at the side seams and the crotch seams AND IF you use regular elastic – to the waist and leg openings as well
Sizing of ‘Budapest’ FREE high waist panty sewing pattern:

Sizing is according to your HIP size.

  • XS hip size: 33 4/8 – 34 4/8 inch (85 – 87.6 cm)
  • S hip size: 35 4/8 – 36 4/8 inch (90 – 92.7 cm)
  • M hip size: 37 4/8 – 38 4/8 inch (95.3 – 97.8 cm)
  • L hip size: 40 – 41 4/8 inch (101.6 – 105.4 cm)
  • XL hip size: 43 – 44 4/8 inch (109.2 – 113 cm)
  • XXL: 46 4/8 – 48 4/8 inch (118.1 – 123-2 cm)
Downloadable PDF pattern pieces of the Budapest free high waist sewing pattern:
PRINT THEM WITH 100% SCALE!

You LOVE the pattern? Tip me and I’ll release more free patterns in the future:




 

Are you ready for Budapest? Let’s see how it goes!

1. step: Choosing and cutting your fabric

  • cut Front and Back and Gusset ON FOLD. Gusset should be cotton jersey, don’t use nylon or any microfiber fabric because they ain’t no good for your body, trust and stick with cotton!
  • For the main fabric, you can use lycra, cotton jersey, tulle/mesh, etc, just make sure it’s 4 way stretchy.
  • It’s not necessary to prewash microfiber fabric because the shrinkage is minimal, but if you want to be sure, do it.

 

1.1

Stretch muslin, cotton jersey and lycra with matching elastic

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2. step: Finishing the floating gusset

  • Fold the wide edge of the gusset (5 mm) and stitch it down with straight stitch – this seam won’t stretch.
  • Note: I used a square piece of gusset, yours gonna be wider on one side. (Mine turned out to be a little short, that’s why I lengthened the pattern piece.)
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Wrong side of floating gusset

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3. step: Sewing Gusset + Front + Back together

  • Lay down the FRONT piece, RIGHT SIDE FACING YOU, then lay on it the BACK piece, WRONG SIDE FACING YOU, then lay down on them the GUSSET, WRONG SIDE FACING YOU- make sure the UNSTITCHED edge of the gusset alignes with the front and back crotch parts.
  • Stitch the crotch seam and trim the seam allowance
  • Fold the gusset to the front
  • I usually stabilize the floating part by putting 1-2 stitches on the right and left side. This way it’s easier to attach the elastic from the right side later (the gusset won’t be bulky and slip away)

 

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13262193_10209969622106782_2104942234_o Looks like this from the inside after sewing

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Just 2 little stitches on the edges

3. step: Sewing side seams

  • What you need to do is put together the front and back RIGHT SIDES facing, and sew the side seam (SA is 5 mm) with ZIG-ZAG!
  • These seams will be stretched out the most when dressing up and down, so make the seam stable.
  • You can trim the seam allowance, or if you have serger, use it!

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4. Step: Add elastic to leg openings

  • If you use lace elastic, just lay it on the RIGHT side of the panty at the leg openings (I usually start at the side seam for the good looking panty or at the crotch seam) and depening on the width of the lace zig-zag the elastic on the panty. Use 5 mm SA on the main fabric, and on the lace whatever you feel comfortable with – 5 mm or 1 cm if it’s a wider elastic.
  • During sewing : PULL the elastic a little, but DON’T PULL the fabric at all! This way the panty will snug on your body.
  • Trim the seam allowances later

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5. step: Finish the panty with attaching elastic to the waist

  • with the same method, attach elastic to the waist as well.
  • trim the seam allowances, and well, YOU CREATED YOUR BUDAPEST PANTY! Congrats!!!

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If you are satisfied with the Budapest free sewing pattern, you can support my work by tipping:




White lace longline bra sewing – pure magic!

Hey All,

Hope you’re having a great time, we have a 3 days long weekend because of national holiday and next week we’re off to ride bike from Prague to Dresden (we’re traveling with train to Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic and then we’ll ride 210 kms to get to the German city, Dresden.)

So I keep sewing, I’m almost finished with my second Lekala dress, some finishing touches are needed and OF COURSE I had to sew a new bra for myself. I wanted to make a nice longline bra for a very long time, and I was thinking about a boned one – you know which look like almost bustiers. Or they are actually bustiers. So, some kind of hybrid!

I created the sister of the black lace bra! And why is it a sister? Not only for that it is white and that one black, but because they arrived together. By the way, this white lace is super soft, the black one was tougher to touch, but this white lace (to my surprise) seems to be better quality. 

I wanted a similar look like this one below:

You know, I used for this white lace longline bra sewing the same self drafted pattern just like with the black one, but I used a more relaxed underwire (the sides were almost evenly short, so no significant difference), and my main idea was a two cup pieces bra, which is decorated on the band by the lace itself and also on the upper cup piece.  Also I lenghtened the cradle and wings. And I wanted to have a round look, not a triangle look.

I was used to put elastic on the upper cup piece, but the black one, and now the white bra proved that it’s not that necessary when the cup itself is stretchy – snugs on your body!

I knew I had to stabilize the cradle and I used for that white rigid tulle. I remember when I made this emerald longline that it had wrinkles all over the cradle. I learnt that I should have used a shorter lining piece to avoid that (it would free floating) but with this white lace it would have ruined the look – how do you hide the board of the lining? I could have used jersey and lace, and then lining, but… I wasn’t concerned that much.

So, it has few wrinkles – but it’s okay! And actually I love it so much, it’s very comfortable and very gorgeous look. I’m thinking about putting boning to the sides and to the front – but I’m not sure yet. I love it anyway!

I havve one more thing to do: mathing panties!

Another information: for a while I’m aware my right and left boobies are not even. There is a slight difference which why I use a bigger size of underwire which fit perfectly my right one, and almost pefectly my left one. BUT! I discovered that on the right side there is always gaping in the cradle and when I pull the fabric it disappered.
So my solution was that I shortened the cradle on my right side – and voilá! With this white longline lace bra it’s perfect! No more gaping 🙂

( PS: I know there are puckers… they happened at the very first step and I discovered them too late when I had no energy to unpick so many seams. )

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Lekala 4365 – turquoise rayon dress with pleats

The story of me and my new dress is… you, know, complicated. I instantly fell in love with Lekala 4365 pattern when I saw another member’s creation, THIS one. I mean, not the neon green color but the fit! The fit is amazing, it’s so on spot, and I wanted to make a fitted, beautiful garment for myself as well.

Previously I bought rayon/viscose flokon (flokon is in Hunagrian, I really don’t know how others call it – flokon means the softest woven type), around 2 meters and I wanted to make a maxi dress from it. Flokon drapes amazingly, it’s so bland, like a huge pile of feathers. I loved it!

But I was afraid it’s not gonna be enough, so instead I went for Lekala 4365.

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Lekala 4365 is a basic dress, with zipper on the back, and two pleats on the front, wrap-style.

The instructions are… not the best, okay? Basically it says just fold over the front (to create a 1,5 cm facing?!) and that’s it. No fusible interfacing, no facing, nothing! I knew this would not work, so I put fusible interfacing on the neckline, on the zipper, too.

I haven’t modified anything on the pattern, but I asked for reduced back measurement. It has a little gaping on the top of the back, anyways the fit is really good!

It wasn’t easy to match the front left and right sides together, because it’s hard to tell the middle point on the chest, but I managed to find it.

Anyway, it’s not a hard project, I liked it, and when I LOVED it was the time when I tried it on!

I handbasted the hem, although I don’t like it, it’s too visible, the little dots… And I made a mistake on the hem, it is not even, but this diagonal line harmonizes with the pleats’ line, so, I don’t mind. This was my first time to make a sleeveless dress and I screwed up the armhole. And I screwed up the neckline facing too! I faced the shoulder parts and the front parts seperately, so when they meet above my breasts, it has these tiny threads…

Okay, I finished it last weekend (at the end of April). I was satisfied with it and this weekend we were going for a party and to the museum – to the Hungarian Natural History Museum. This time there is the exhibiton of the Wildlife Photographer of the Year – it was amazing! And two Hungarian photgraphers were also nominated, these are the two photos of their work:

http://www.nhm.ac.uk/resources/visit/wpy/2015/large/26.jpg

Amazing, right?

And this one, too, which was taken near the lake Balaton:

http://www.nhm.ac.uk/resources/visit/wpy/2015/large/48.jpg

So I’m really proud of my Hungarian fellas! 🙂

Back to the dress.. we were preparing on Saturday and I forgot that my dress still has stains, chalk marks and stuff! NOOO! I instantly put it in the washing machine, on hand wash then I just turned it off, tried to make it quicker… and when I took it out, there were the marks!

Then it rained and we decided to go to the museum on Sunday. Okay, no rush, I put it again to the washing machine but I accidentally changed the program to normal wash! :((((( I’m so stupid. This kind of rayon can’t be centrifuging, and when it was done it was a HAIRY MONSTER! Frays everywhere! (yes, I forgot to use French seams, I just zigzagged some seam allowances and it was a total failure.)

I guess Coco Chanel invented her famous jacket this way, she accidentally washed something which frayed like hell! LOL 🙂

So on Sunday morning I went to the sewing machine and tried to fix it. Oh, did I tell that the washing machine ripped one of my seams?! How dare! So in the end, my lovely dress was a little… silly. Like someone who has a hungover.

But I put it one and wore it with grace.

Sorry for these photos, I hate posing for photos in public….

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Black lace bra with power bar!

Finally I managed to make a bra with power bar, particulary a black lace bra with power bar.

Sofía’s tutorial helped me so much and gave the main inspiration: I wanted to make something similar to this Calvin Klein bra she posted about:

Look how carefree she is 😀

okay… so, you might read my previous post about Bubblegum – a white stretch tulle bra with lace and of course power-bar, it was my first try and the stretchiness was just too much (honestly, I don’t wear it :/).

I knew I had to use a more stable fabric combination.. and I found my beautiful grey lace in the stash and some matching grey stretch satin leftover. It was a perfect combination! I decided to use foam this time – I had to try out the huge pile of laminated foam I managed to buy lately – 3 meters for like 8$!!!

But I just did not have the good mood and I screwed up the fabric cuttings – I used the same pattern pieces on foam and fabric (it’s an amateur mistake in bra making but as I said my mind was not in the right place) and I got frustrated and I saw it’s not gonna work and just threw it to the trash can.

I dealt with my new shirt and a dress and lately my order from eBay arrived – so I got a new mojo to make a beautiful piece of lingerie.

About the fabric: I used lace trim and for the powerbar I combined a stretchy tulle fabric (it went to the outside) with a rigid navy blue tulle (it went to the inside).

I also used the same navy tulle for the cradle lining.

The style is, of course, different – I didn’t want to have trouble with the perfect 90 degree point where the power bar and upper cup piece meet, so I just took my 2 piece pattern (drafted through the Kristina Shin method) and with the help of the tutorial I created a powerbar pattern. Easy-peasy!

I used a quite open underwire I saved from one of my old bras – and I had the issue with the wire (of course, as always) – so I had not enough space for the underwire and I had a hard time to stablizite it so it won’t poke through – however, I still have to check one side because that one tends to poke through the lace on the side – but it’s not a huge deal.

And I almost forgot: it’s comfortable, I feel great in it, so that’s a big relief 🙂

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UPDATE:

I made matching French knickers using tulle and lace and an other kind of a narrow lace trim.

I made a heart shaped cutout – and I used my RTW knickers and I consider to share the pattern in the future.

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Lekala 4002 shirt with bows

Krisztian Bodis Photography

Krisztian Bodis Photography

I find it quite extreme that I haven’t encountered Lekala patterns earlier. They are AMAZING!

Lekala is a Russian pattern company which offers plenty of sewing patterns which have custom measurements! Basically you type your data: full bust, waist, underbust, hip, full hip and if you wish, neck width, arm width AND you can check some additional settings, e.g. if you have a slightly smaller back or you are shortwaisted, or longwaisted, or your breast width is wider so on.. so on. And within a half hour they send you the pattern PDF – and they cost only $2.99.

If you wish, for additional price you can get SA included (but I’m used to Burda patterns so it’s not a big deal for me) and yep, you gotta tape your own patter pieces, but again, no big deal for me to trace a pattern (hello again Burda pattern mazes!).

I know it’s hard to tell whether you have a small back or not – compared to what? There is no magic formula for that. But let’s see my case. 

So on Burdastyle I saw a featured member project and then reading the pattern, I had to check the Lekala site. As I can guess (according to some blog posts), Lekala made an international-friendly website and webshop recently, because I’ve read years ago people advised to check and buy from the original Russian site – it had more options, patterns back then. Now I find the English site user-friendly, cheap, and awesomethe patterns are purely awesome! /okay, the searching system is not very detailed/

I know some people had no luck with custom made measurement, but let me tell you something..

So far the Burda and the one Butterick patterns never fitted me good enough. And as a beginner, a novice, most of the cases you have no idea how could it go so wrong… And I’m speaking as someone who had never problems with RTW sizing, never! And it is really frustrating when in the name of sustainability and slow life you spend hours and hours with sewing and what you get doesn’t fit. And in my case I found my sizes in one column, so my fb and waist and hip regularly are in one size – and still had no luck. So after al the struggle…

Ladies and gentlemen, I think I find my favourite pattern company!

And the reason is not only the custom-made measurement, BUT the style. As a European, living in the Middle of Europe and having a lot of slavic influence, I fu***ing love the styles of the pattern, almost all of them! Can you believe? They are fitted, they are truly feminine, and have sometimes couture designs but not in a very twisted/weird way, just some draping, some interesting details. I gotta tell you, a lot of indie (and Burda, too) patterns are baggy – for my taste. Shapeless, not fitted at all – and I really don’t get what is the purpose of those shapeless designs. Sorry!

I find very refreshing to see Lekala.

Okay, my first choice was a shirt, a basic shirt with lovely bows on the sleeves – called Lekala 4002. I haven’t asked for any modifications, just typed my data and quickly received the pattern.

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I haven’t followed the instructions, because I luckily knew some things about shirt making. I bought floral cotton fabric earlier, it was discounted and I found it suitable for this project.

I wanted a wardrobe staple and I’m short on the shirt-list – I have 3-4 wearable ones only. Lekala 4002 is not that fitted (which may sound funny after I mentioned I adore fitted garments). You can see on the model that near the waist there is some extra fabric which I didn’t mind and of course at first I wanted to see how the pattern fits me without alterations.

I gotta say, I love it! It fits me with a small note : I noticed that with Burda and Butterick I felt that my back is not wide enough, I ended up always with 2-3 cms extra fabric on my back. I don’t feel it too much on the yoke, but for a more fitted result (or for the original design) I might check next time the “back width – decreased”. On bust front – it’s all good, not tight so I won’t want an increased breast width in exchange. I hope with this minor alteration I’ll get the most suitable patterns. So far I’m really satisfied with the results.

This shirt was ready within 2 afternoons/evenings, and I really liked the pretty bows on the sleeves.

Yesterday we had a big event in Budapest, called ‘I bike BP’ – which is a regular event every year to make important the issues of bycicle routes and the bike-friendly city. When the weather is nice, I always ride bike to get to work, it takes me 40 minutes through our lovely park and I always enjoy it – it’s sport for me (I don’t work out regularly, only some yoga). It’s 2*40 minutes a day, which makes me quite satisfied (and currently we’re preparing for a big journey from Prague to Dresden – a bycicle route from the Czech capital city to the German Dresden in May along the river Elba).

So at the event there was a 10 km long route in the city – all important roads were closed for the cars and there were 10 000 riders – young, old, children, everybody – some poeple on skateboards or rollers too. I wore my brand new shirt on the event, so I’ll show you some action photos!

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With my Hubby

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Craftsy Classic Tailoring: The Blazer review Part I

About a month ago or so I made my decision and bought a class on Craftsy! I know a lot of people joined these wonderful video classes (most of I read were Beverly Johnson’s Bramaking classes), but I was looking for something else (cause I own Beverly’s book and lately I lost some of my lingerie mojo – like the scale went down for the clothes).

7-8 months ago when I was just getting around sewing and made like 5-6 projects I decided I’m gonna make a suit! A tweed suit! Such naive thoughts... But you can’t blame me, I was fresh in sewing world and I thought it couldn’t be hard – but, well, it IS hard, very hard and the more I sew the more I feel like it’s getting harder – when you want to try yourself out in different garments, different styles, not just causal t-shirts and tops.

So, I want to show you my failure from back then:

This was a Burda pattern, an individual pattern I bought – I haven’t used any outside helps only following the description (which was quite helpful, full of pictures).

But it lacked the tailoring techniques, hair canvas, hand stitching— nothing there.

So I spent one week to experience the hard way of making and failing.

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Actually it’s not THAT bad for a begginer, but it clearly shows that the pattern should be adjusted to my body and there is no stability in the blazer at all. It collapses on my body.

However, the matching skirt turned out to be good, although I wore it like once since then, I feel like an old lady in a tweed skirt. Somehow my love for tweed is not a heavenly-matched love, I love it on other people, on Englishmen, on Pinterest photos but on me, without full styling looks so old.

But I never give up on jacket / blazer making!

And when I saw this class on Craftsy, Classic Tailoring : The Blazer for $59.99 or something I was… Umm, it’s so great, but I’m gonna wait for a while to purchase the class. And I was browsing through the project photos, other reviews about the actual pattern (Butterick B4610), and when I saw the class is on sale for $19.99, I instantly bought it!

The pattern is free for the class, thank God, they send it to you (to Hungary Simplicity and Butterick and Vogue international shipping rates are $15… double of the actual patterns so I never buy these American patterns).

I wanted to use wool for this jacket, but, 1, it’s almost summer here, 2, I didn’t want to spend too much money on expensive fabric, because this was my real first try. And you have to buy so many stuff for this project – I payed only for the cotton fabric $16 / the seller showed me a beautiful wool fabric in white – LOVE LOVE LOVE, and it was on SALE, guess for how much? Instead of $44/meter it was only $30/meter…. what a bargain… 🙁 I’m not a millionaire, sorry, maybe, next time.

Okay, let’s talk about the materials:

  • fabric
  • lining
  • cotton lawn / batiste / or cotton muslin
  • twill tape
  • fusible interfacing /or wigan
  • hair canvas
  • buttons

The teacher is Steffani Lincecum, who comes from the costume world and knows her thing around garments. I liked her ‘coaching’, understandable, easy to follow and very nice.

The first half of the making process is full of hand stitching! A LOT! And you know what? I found it very rewarding, because handstitching the hair canvas, the lapel and the under collar gives very good shape to your garment.

I used cotton fabric with a little bit of stretch.

So, you begin with cutting the pieces, making bound buttonhole, putting twill tape on the lapel, undercollar, handstitching like a million times, basting cotton muslin on your pieces and fusible interfacing or wigan on the bottom.

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Reinforcing the shoulder

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Handbasting on front

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Front – inside – outside (full of handstitches, twill tape)

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Bound buttonhole

 

So I felt that it’s going well, I’m getting it, it’s slowly have a shape.

I forgot to tell that I made a quick muslin, only a vest to see is it okay, and I compared the size to my other blazers and I felt okay, it’s gonna be all right. (I shortened the shoulder a little and adjusted to fit better the princess seam on the front).

And then, my fate reached me.

Steffani, so so sadly and I also read another blogger’s review about the class, forgot (or just ignored) the very- very hard process of setting the sleeves in. And I’m so sad, really.

I put on like 100 times the jacket, pinned, then basted, repinned, twisted, basted again, tried my left sleeve on. That bastard drapes unwell! Somehow there is a line and it’s like my sleeve collapses, or.. you know, it looks like there is a twist, no matter how hard I tried.

I started to setting the sleeve in last Thursday, and tried it since then, almost every night, and yesterday I said, it’s fine by me, I don’t care anymore and I just hope with time I’ll be better at sleeve setting.

So as much as I like this class, I’m really devastated because the sleeve setting part is missing.

And the mider on the sleeve is a little bit confusing, too – one side is recorded very well, but the other side of the sleeve is getting midered more easily – and the camera doesn’t show where she folds, stitches and turns the fabric… hmph.

I know these issues are not issues for experienced seamstresses, but for me, they are issues.

Right now both sleeves are inserted, they are just not great. I’m working on the jacket for 1,5 weeks and I’m getting exhausted (I had to make a quick t-shirt during it, and also I’m wanting to try my first Lekala shirt pattern..), so I don’t know, it’s impossible to work so much constantly and you don’t know is it going to fit well? Or I would say it, I know it’s not gonna fit perfectly tailored but I have to keep working to gain experience and learn, and maybe next time make a better version.

So I’ll keep you updated, I need to sew together the lining and front facing, attach the two parts and then line the sleeves and some final touches… Right now I know I’m not gonna put packets on it, I don’t want to mix the pattern too much.

A photo, when it had only one sleeve:

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